Lifestyle

03 Dec 2019, 19:46 PM

In Slovenia there is a strange phenomenon of three incarnations of a bearded old man that brings gifts to children in December. This could have happened either due to the balance of power among the competing ideologies in recent political history, or it could also be a successful plot of several generations of kids making their parents feel guilty about politicising such a wonderful kids’ holiday, which all three of the events are supposed to be.

The first one of the three is the most religiously traditional and often very disciplinary figure of St. Nicholas (Miklavž, or Sveti Miklavž), who arrives on December 5th, with Santa Claus (Božiček), a liberal import from the West and Grandpa Frost (Dedek Mraz), a leftist revolutionary figure imported from the East, following suit later in the month.

Processions are usually organised mostly for Miklavž and Dedek Mraz, and while the timing of Miklavž is always set for December 5 for both gift giving and appearances, Dedek Mraz can be seen throughout the month, although he brings gifts to kids’ homes on the New Year’s Eve alone. Of course there is also Santa Clause, bringing gifts on Christmas Eve, but this old man can mostly be seen in shopping malls.

Miklavž (or St Nicholas) is an early Christian saint and bishop from Mira (then part of the Roman Empire, today Turkey), known for his generosity. As a gift giver he is especially popular in Central Europe, where many churches are named after him, including the Ljubljana Cathedral (St. Nicholas Church). 

As a gift giver Miklavž, being a saint, descends from heaven – in the case of Ljubljana that means coming down Castle Hill in the funicular – with a group of angels and devils, the former giving sweets to good children, the latter scaring them with chains and canes so that they wouldn’t be bad, along with some other interesting characters.

 

Miklavž can be met this Thursday, December 5, 2019 in the following places:

LJUBLJANA: Starting at 17:00 at Krekov trg, from there to Ciril Metodov trg, Stritarjeva ulica, and Prešernov trg

MARIBOR: Starting at 17:00 at Grajski trg

KRANJ: Starting at 17:00 at Glavni trg

DOMŽALE: Starting at 17:00 at Športna dvorana (sports hall) Domžale

CELJE: Starting at 17:00 at Krekov trg

KAMNIK: Starting at 18:00 at Glavni trg, in case of bad weather at Dom kulture

VRHNIKA: Starting at 17:00 in front of Ivan Cankar birth house, then group walk with torches to Sveta trojica

ŠKOFJA LOKA: Starting at 16:50 at Mestni trg/Loški oder

DOVJE: At 16:00 in Aljažev prosvetni dom

03 Dec 2019, 16:16 PM

STA, 3 December 2019 - The results of Slovenian 15-year-olds in reading, scientific and mathematical literacy tests are above the OECD average, shows the recent PISA study. Compared to the previous such study, the students have come off as less accomplished in reading and science literacy though.

The results of the study, which was conducted last year among some 6,400 15-year-olds, mostly secondary school first year students, have confirmed that Slovenian students of this age group excel in mathematical literacy.

Their scientific literacy is above the OECD average as well; however, the latest performance in this category shows a slight downturn - the same goes for the students' reading literacy, which significantly improved in 2015 compared to the PISA studies conducted in 2009 and 2012, but has now declined a bit.

Compared to the 2006 study, the first time such a study was conducted in Slovenia, the students' reading literacy in 2018 was pretty much the same, their mathematical literacy improved and scientific literacy slightly deteriorated, according to the Educational Research Institute, which carried out the Slovenian part of the study.

Last year's decline in reading literacy is a result of a worse performance across the spectrum, with the share of worst performers increasing by three percentage points to 18%.

Commenting on these developments, Education Minister Jernej Pikalo said that his ministry might have to discuss the efficiency of related measures from 2009.

Regarding scientific literacy, the average downturn resulted from a worse performance of the best performers, with their share dropping by four percentage points to 7%.

Meanwhile, girls achieved better results than boys in reading as well as scientific literacy last year - the former's performance was significantly better on average than in other OECD countries.

Slovenian students are also less motivated than their OECD peers worldwide - compared to 2009, the students' enjoyment experienced during reading in 2018 remained below the OECD average, with the students often expressing disappointment over the engagement and support of their teachers of the Slovenian language.

The minister is concerned over this lack of motivation, saying digital media were a distraction that pulls students away from books, while also highlighting that the signal regarding the teachers of Slovenian needs to be acknowledged.

The study also showed that the students spent an hour more on the internet in 2018 than in 2012 - altogether, more than three hours per day, which Pikalo thinks is another cause for concern.

The minister pointed out that the results did not necessarily always depict the actual situation in schools; however, he did acknowledge that Slovenia's educational system should cater better to gifted students.

He also highlighted that students needed to be able to not only understand texts but also to contextualise and use new information in the future.

All our stories about education in Slovenia are here

03 Dec 2019, 12:24 PM

STA, 3 December 2019 - More than 300 events in galleries, museums, theatres and other cultural organisations around the country will be available free of charge for all age groups on Tuesday, 3 December, in memory of the birthday of Romantic poet France Prešeren (1800-1849).

The Merry Day of Culture, as the campaign is termed, is organised for the 20th year in a row, bringing exhibitions, theatrical shows, guided tours, workshops etc.

The campaign has been designed to reach out to those who rarely visit cultural organisations and events.

It has become very popular, and many museums and galleries have traditionally been the busiest venues on 3 December.

In Ljubljana, permanent and temporary exhibitions at all national museums and galleries will open the door to the public free of charge.

A number of events will be organised at Ljubljana Castle, the National and University Library, Cankarjev Dom and the Theatre Museum.

Novelties in the Fran web portal which features several dozen dictionaries and Slovenian language resources will also be presented to the public.

Given that 3 December falls on a weekday this year, groups organised by schools are expected to dominate among the visitors.

02 Dec 2019, 19:53 PM

Luka Dončić (Dallas Mavericks) met with the little boy named Kris who is undergoing an expensive and relatively risky genetic treatment in Los Angeles ahead of the Dallas Mavericks game against LA Lakers last night.

 

Luka Dončić has joined the fundraising campaign in Slovenia, in which over €3 million was raised to send little Kris with his parents to Los Angeles for a very expensive genetic treatment not yet available in his home country.

Kris is a toddler from Slovenia who suffers from type 1 spinal muscular atrophy (SMA1), a serious genetic disease. If left untreated, the majority SMA1 patients do not reach the age of four, with recurrent respiratory problems being the primary cause of death. A new genetic treatment, Onasemnogene abeparvovec, has been developed and approved by the USA Food and drug administration (FDA) in March 2019, but is still awaiting its approval from the European and Japanese authorities. The price of Zolgensma, which is a trade name of the drug, was set at $2.125 million (approximately €1.942 million), which makes Zolgensma the world’s most expensive medication by far.

Since the drug has not yet been approved in Europe, it is also not part of the health insurance system. For European patients, the drug is therefore available in the USA and at their own expense. The drug is only administered to children under 24 months of age and the disease develops fast, so Kris did not have time to wait for the drug to be approved in Europe and included into the health security system there.

Dončić met with Kris and his family at the basketball court, just before his team beat the LA Lakers 114:100.

01 Dec 2019, 10:28 AM

STA, 29 November 2019 - Slovenia is seeing the third straight year with a very low number of newly discovered HIV infection cases, a trend experts attribute to successful preventive care, especially among gay men. Around 1,000 people with HIV are estimated to be living in Slovenia, one in five without knowing. Those who receive treatment mostly cannot transmit the virus.

The National Institute of Public Health (NIJZ) said ahead of World AIDS Day (1 December) that 25 new HIV cases were diagnosed by 22 November this year, ten fewer than in the whole of 2018. Men, 15 of whom gay, accounted for 19 cases, and women for six.

AIDS was diagnosed for one man and four women, all of whom had also been diagnosed with HIV earlier in the year. Two persons with HIV died, while there were no deaths among those diagnosed with AIDS.

The NIJZ believes the relatively low number of infection instances among homosexual men is the result of combined preventive measures, especially easy access to testing and a changed attitude to testing in this population and to getting treatment immediately after diagnosis.

The institute puts the estimated total number of HIV-infected persons in Slovenia at the start of 2019 at slightly under 1,000, with roughly a fifth of them not being aware of the infection.

In order to reduce this share, the plan is to soon bring self-test kits for HIV to pharmacies in Slovenia.

According to Janez Tomažič, an infectiologist at the UKC Ljubljana hospital, efforts have been under way to bring these tests to Slovenia for years.

The moment seems to be arriving now, with Tomažič stressing the need for an affordable price, meaning no more than 20 euros, and for laying down the protocols that follow after a positive test.

Early detection and treatment are key to preventing the spreading of HIV. The vast majority of what the NIJZ says were 657 persons with a confirmed HIV infection receive antiretroviral therapy and as a result the viral load with 600 of them is too low for them to be in danger of transmitting the virus.

The national strategy on AIDS meanwhile also envisages pre-exposure prophylaxis. While this prevention method for at risk groups is presently only being conducted as a test project, Tomažič would like to see it covered by basic compulsory health insurance.

Men who have sexual intercourse with other men remain the group most at risk of infection and Legebitra has been organising tests for this population for ten years. The NGO has a test location in Ljubljana and ten more towns in Slovenia.

Mitja Ćosić of Legebitra has told the STA that testing around the country has proved vital, with the recent period mostly seeing positive tests in non-central areas.

He said the attitude to testing had changed substantially, but added that the stigma concerning testing diminishing at least in this group did not mean that the stigma around HIV was gone.

It is present in particular at locations where people come in contact with HIV-positive persons, meaning especially in health centres where the staff are aware of the infection and engage in inappropriate and discriminatory behaviour, Ćosić said.

Meanwhile, Evita Leskovšek of the NIJZ argued that the successful trend showed all had been done that was possible in this field. She is however worried by the rise in other STDs.

She said awareness needed to be raised further about safe sex, while there is also the need to pay attention to other groups where HIV-infection incidence could increase in the coming years.

01 Dec 2019, 09:00 AM

Keep up with the daily news in Slovenia by checking the morning headlines here. What to find out what happened last week in Slovenia? Look no further.

The following schedule was prepared by the STA:

MONDAY, 2 December
        BELGRADE, Serbia - Foreign Minister Miro Cerar will start a two-day official visit to Serbia.
        LJUBLJANA - The National Assembly will convene an emergency session to vote on overturning upper chamber vetoes on budget bills for 2020 and 2021.
        BRUSSELS, Belgium - Interior Minister Boštjan Poklukar will attend a session of the EU's Justice and Home Affairs Council.
        BRUSSELS, Belgium - Infrastructure Minister Alenka Bratušek will attend a session of the EU's Transport Council.
        LJUBLJANA - ZSSS and Pergam, the two largest trade union groups, will speak to the press about the effects of the minimum wage increase on 1 January.
        LJUBLJANA - Slovenian Sovereign Holding will host a conference to present the results of asset management and its expectations regarding the performance of state-owned enterprises.
        LJUBLJANA - The Spanish Embassy, the NGO Femmes Sans Frontieres and the City of Ljubljana will host a debate as part of the campaign against violence against women and girls.
        LJUBLJANA - President Borut Pahor will host a reception to mark the 30th anniversary since the formation of the Democratic Opposition of Slovenia (DEMOS), which won the first multi-party elections in 1990.
        LJUBLJANA - The Week of Dutch Culture will open at the Ljubljana City Library; until 6 December.
        LJUBLJANA - Animateka, an international festival of animated film; until 8 December.

TUESDAY, 3 December
        LONDON, UK - Prime Minister Marjan Šarec will attend a NATO summit marking the 70th anniversary of the alliance.
        LUXEMBOURG, Luxembourg - The EU General Court will start oral hearings related to Slovenia's legal action against the European Commission for granting Croatia a derogation enabling it to use the wine name Teran.
        BRUSSELS, Belgium - Public Administration Minister Rudi Medved will attend a meeting of EU ministers in charge of telecommunications that will focus on next-generation mobile networks.
        BRUSSELS, Belgium - Justice Minister Andreja Katič will attend a session of the EU's Justice and Home Affairs Council.
        LJUBLJANA - Integrity Days, a series of events organised by Transparency International Slovenia in the run-up to International Anti-Corruption Day; until 5 December.
        LJUBLJANA - The Education Ministry will present the first results of the latest PISA study of student performance.
        LJUBLJANA - The parliamentary Home Policy Committee will debate a report on illegal migrations.
        LJUBLJANA - The opposition New Slovenia (NSi) will host a debate on digitalisation.
        LJUBLJANA - Admission will be free at most Slovenian cultural institutions in honour of the birth anniversary of Romantic poet France Prešeren.

WEDNESDAY, 4 December
        LJUBLJANA - The three-member presidency of Bosnia and Herzegovina headed by Željko Komšić will pay a visit at the invitation of President Borut Pahor.
        BRUSSELS, Belgium - Finance Minister will attend a session of the Eurogroup.
        BRUSSELS, Belgium - Infrastructure Minister Alenka Bratušek will attend a meeting of EU ministers in charge of energy.
        NAPLES, Italy - Environment Minister Simon Zajc will attend a Barcelona Convention ministerial.
        LJUBLJANA - The parliamentary Defence Committee will debate a motion by the Left to immediately cease Slovenia's military involvement in Afghanistan.
        LJUBLJANA - The parliamentary Labour Committee will debate amendments to parental care act that would extend paternal leave and raise minimum parental leave allowance.
        LJUBLJANA - The Government Office for Slovenians Abroad will mark the 25th anniversary since its founding with a ceremony.
        LJUBLJANA - Thirty years since the signing of an agreement establishing the Democratic Opposition of Slovenia (DEMOS), which won the first multi-party elections in 1990.
        LJUBLJANA - The Employment Service will release registered unemployment figures for November.

THURSDAY, 5 December
        BERLIN - Parliamentary Speaker Dejan Židan will start a two-day working visit to Germany.
        BRUSSELS, Belgium - Finance Minister will attend a session of the EU's Economic and Financial Affairs Council.
        LJUBLJANA - Weekly government session.
        LJUBLJANA - The Institute for the Study of Gender Equality will present the results of a study of gender equality in European politics.
        LJUBLJANA - The French Institute in Slovenia will host a conference on women in science.
        LJUBLJANA - The Chamber of Trade Crafts and Small Business will celebrate its 50th anniversary by conferring awards to the best small businesses and tradesmen.
        LJUBLJANA - AmCham Slovenija will pick the winner of its Best of the Best competition.

FRIDAY, 6 December
        LJUBLJANA - IMAD, the government's macroeconomic think-tank, will present the first national report on productivity.

SATURDAY, 7 December
        LJUBLJANA - An award ceremony will be held as part of animated film festival Animateka.
        LJUBLJANA - The Mendelssohn Chamber Orchestra from Hungary will perform in honour of the 100th birth anniversary of composer Janez Bole(1919-2007).

SUNDAY, 8 December
        No major events scheduled.

30 Nov 2019, 11:30 AM

If you're not in town for the week of this guide (2 - 8 December, 2019) then you can see all the editions here, and if there's event or activity you want to promote in a future edition of What's on in Ljubljana please get in touch with me at flanner(at)total-slovenia-news.com or try and find me on Facebook, although bear in mind I'm moving house over the coming week and will be stressed, busy and possibly slow to respond. If you want something a little different and easy to print, then a comprehensive PDF of events for the next seven days, as prepared by Ljubljana Tourism, is here. If you're in town and want to follow the news then check out our regular morning headlines for Slovenia here.

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The biggest attraction is now the city itself – the lights set up, the stalls set out, and the streets full of locals and visitors, from outside Ljubljana and around the world. Move around, follow the lights, seek out some food and some music, and you’ll have enough fun without any plans.

Things you’ll see around town include the Land of Ice exhibition of ice sculptures in Congress Square / Zvezda Park, in a corner with a very good view of the Castle. That requires a ticket, but something free is the same area is the Magical Forest, 16:30 to 19:00, which will host creative workshops of making environmentally friendly Christmas decorations. The Ice Queen will also be appearing until 22 December and offering “ice artists who will impress with juggling, sorcery and acrobatic points that will convince even the most discerning viewers”. This will move around as the evening progresses, following this route from 17:00 to 19:00: Krekov trg Square, Petkovškovo Embankment, Prešernov trg Square, park Zvezda, Gallus Embankment, and Mestni trg Square. There will also be organ grinders wearing vintage clothing and performing without monkeys.

The Castle also has a festive fair, and it’s a great place to get a bird’s eye view of the city at night.

Thursday the seasonal fun finds a focus with the St. Nicholas Procession, when from 17:00 to 18:30. Here St. Nicholas will be accompanied by devils and an assembly of angels, who will be distributing biscuits, fruits and sweets to children.

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6, 7 and 8 December Ljubljana's most intimate venue, the Pocket Teater (sic), right in the centre of town and near all the lights, is presenting it's new vaudeville show “Matilda, Let’s Do It!" Lean more about that here.

Something that isn’t quite so seasonal, although it is annual, is Animateka, with the 16th edition of this animated film festival running all week, from Monday to Sunday. You can learn a lot more here, and a PDF of the programme is here.

Saturday Božidar is hosting Kraftwear, a fair of creative textiles, with the Facebook here. The same day, 7 December, in the evening, the Gospodarsko razstavišče, Dunajska cesta 18, is having a Balkan Festival headlined by Ceca & Aca Lukas, and Darko Lazić, with the first pair shown in one of their more popular videos below.

Sunday night Vlado Kreslin begins his traditional run of Christmas concerts at Cankarjev dom, continuing on Monday and Tuesday. See above is the trailer for a recent documentary on the man that's worth seeking out if you want to learn more about the varied and curious musical history of this national institution.

New or recent movies this week include the following, with the usual warning that kids' films are usually shown dubbed:

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In town and looking for a gift or souvenir? Take a look at Cook Eat Slovenia - the book.

How much do tourists spend in Slovenia? Find out here

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You may have heard about Free Tour Ljubljana, the tour company that’s #1 on TripAdvisor for the city and gives away its main product. What’s the deal with that? Find out here.

While the Old Town is quaint, and full of music, where does Ljubljana really shop? One popular answer is BTC City, a vast complex of malls, entertainment facilities and more, including more than 70 different food vendors, offering everything from Slovenian to Thai, Indian to Italian, Mexican to Chinese. Check out my recent visit here.

Looking for something different to eat? Trubajeva cesta, running right by Dragon Bridge, has the greatest concentration of "ethnic food" places in Ljubljana, and thus perhaps the country. Check out our walk through guide as of June 2019.

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In warmer days than you'll see this week. Photo: JL Flanner

Ljubljana is forecast to be the fastest-warming city in the world over the next few decades.

You're in the town of Slavoj Žižek, but do you find yourself lost when conversation turns to the philosopher? If so, check out our collection of quotes and clips to learn more.

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Screenshot from YouTube


Contents

Cinemas and films

You can read about all the cinemas in town here, while a selection of what’s playing this week is below, and note that kids' movies tend to be shown in dubbed versions, while non-English language movies for older viewers will have Slovenian subtitles.Parents should also pay attention to Kinobalon, which is Kinodvor's regular weekend series of film screenings and events for children, from babies on up, with special parent/child events, "first time in a cinema" screenings, and babysitting. Learn more about it here, and see the current schedule here.

Note - most children's films will be dubbed (sinhronizirano) - for subtitles look for 'podnapisi'.

Kinodvor –This is an arts cinema, not far from the train station, that shows new features as well as hosting the occassional festival.

Kinoteka – And not far from Kinodvor you can find this revival cinema, which shows art house classics along with some deep dives in the archives.

Kino Bežigrad - A relatively small theatre, but one which usually has the biggest of the new releases.

Kolosej -The multiplex out at BTC City Mall shows all the big movies, with well over a dozen titles on the schedule, although note that there are far more movies than screens, so some of the older ones mayonly be playing once or twice a week.

Komuna – The cinema in a basement behind Nama department store shows two or three different features a week, usually including the biggest titles.

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Looking for a souvenir you'll really enjoy? Take a look at Broken Bones Gin, the first gin made in Ljubljana (learn more here, and try it at the Central Market or selected downtown bars).

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Photo: Genius loci d.o.o.

Know that big triangular building behind the train station? Learn what's inside here.

Clubbing

Compared to some European capitals it can seem that nightlife in Ljubljana ends rather early, especially along the river, but there are still bars that stay open late and clubs were you can dance until dawn, and perhaps the best place to stumble across something interesting is the legendary Metelkova. Be aware it's a grungy kind of place and not for all tastes, but also that there's considerable variety to found within the various clubs there, from death metal to electropop, gay cabaret to art noise. You can read "the rules" of the place here. And if you're curious about how the place started then read our story, and look at some pictures, about last year's 25th anniversary.

Božidar - DJ events aren't too common here, but when they happen they often have a big name.

Channel Zero – DJs shows here include regular dub nights as well as electronic music.

Gala Hala – Another Metelkova venue, you can sometimes hear bhangra and Bollywood here, but more often funk, hip hop, breakbeat and so on.

Klub Cirkus – The more commercial end of clubland, and a venue that aims to serve the student party scene. Expect house, anthems, and bangers.

Klub K4 – The home of techno, old and new, along with various other electronic genres,

Koncertna Dvorana Rog– There are irregular DJ sets at this underground (not literally) venue at the far end of Trubarjeva cesta, and they range from techno to goa to drum'n'bass.

Orto Bar80s and 90s throwback nights can often be found here, along with rock-based DJ sets.

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Live music

Balassi Institute – Free Hungarian music, when available, from the Hungarian cultural institute just a short walk downriver from Dragon Bridge.

Cankerjev dom – The main arts venue in the country hosts classical, opera jazz, folk and occassinally pop.

CvetličarnaRegional pop and rock concerts can be found here.

Channel Zero – This Metelkova venue sees live shows from punk and rock bands, as well as others.

Gala Hala – Another Metelkova venue with indie bands of various styles.

Kino Šiška – One of the top live venues in the city, with a varied programme that include indie, rock, pop, experimental, hip hop, and so on.

Klub Gromka – Live music is often metal, from sludge to stoner, death to thrash, while punk bands also appear, as do others.

Križanke – The venue that hosts the Ljubljana Festival often has classical music, and some rock, in the open air.

Orto Bar– The home of live rock, metal, punk and other guitar-based genres.

Pinelina dnevna soba – LIve music is rare here, but it does happen.

Slovenska filharmonijaClassical music in the centre of town.

SNG Opera and Ballet - As the name suggests, here you'll find the best of opera and ballet in the country.

Španski borci - While dance is more common here, they also have some contemporary and experimental music shows.

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Slovenska cesta, 1959. Wikimedia. See more pictures of Old Ljubljana here

Theatre and dance

Cankerjev dom- The main arts venue in the country always has something of interest going on.

Gledališče IGLU - IGLU Theatre – Saturday night this group is usually putting on an English improv show somewhere in town, but it’s generally promoted after this is written, so check the Facebook before putting on your shoes.

Kino Šiška – One of the top live venues in the city also hosts some dance performance, often of the more experimental variety.

Mini Teater Ljubljana –The English schedule of varied performances, for adults and children, for the month is here.

Ljubljana Puppet Theatre - Puppetry has a long and noble tradition in Slovenia, and you can see performances for children and adults (including non-puppet shows) drawing from the Theatre's rich repetoire as well as new productons.

SNG Opera and Ballet - As the name suggests, here you'll find the best of opera and ballet in the country.

Španski borci - The home ofcontemporary dance(and the EnKnapGroup) in Slovenia.

Pocket Teater Studio– There are regular flamenco evenings at perhaps the smallest venue town, but note that the number of seats is very limited, and thus you should make a reservation via This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or 070 325 522.

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Harm reduction and drug testing

Drogart is an organization that aims to minimise harm on the party scene, and offers drug-testing services and reports on their webpage. It’s in Slovene, but you can Google translate it or work things out yourself, and our story on the group is here.You can find the latest warnings on fake drugs and high strength pills and powders (in Slovene) here. However, be aware that all the usual drugs are illegal in Slovenia.CBD is legal, though, and our retailer of choice can be found on Trubarjeva cesta - read more about Sena Flora here.

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Photo: Igor Andjelič. See more of his work here

Things to do with children

You can find our Top 12 list of things to do with kids in Ljubljana here. If want to read more about the philosophy behind the wonderful House of Experiments look here, while our trip to the Museum of Illusions is documented here, and there’s always riverside walks, pizza and ice cream. With regard to the latter, take a look at our guide to six places that serve good ice cream in winter, and thus are serious about the dessert.

Mini Teater Ljubljana – The season sees a lot of puppet performances for children, in Slovene, at this theatre not far from Križanke. The English schedule for the month is here.

Ljubljana Puppet Theatre - The puppet theatre near the Central Market and next to the Castle funicular has a full programme or shows, for children and adults, with the schedule here.

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LGBT+ Ljubljana

If you're looking for more general links on "gay Slovenia", including a history of the scene and various projects, then you can find that here, while our stories about the community can be found here.

Klub Monokel – This lesbian bar in Metelkova is open every Friday, although sometimes there are other events

Klub Tiffany –And the gay bar next door is also open on Fridays. Other things coulds also be planned, so click on the name to find out.

Pritličje – This seems to be the only "always open" LGBT-friendly cafe / bar / events space in town, and perhaps the country, so it's a good thing it's such a good one, open from morning to night, and with fliers and posters letting you know what's happening outside the narrow confines of, say, a general interest online what's on... guide.

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Screenshot from Google Maps, showing the location of the Castle vineyard

Ljubljana Castle

The city’s main attraction is said to be the top tourist draw in the country overall, and to my mind it earns a spot near the top just for the history and views. But beyond that the current owners, the City of Ljubljana, have laid out a varied, interesting and enjoyable programme of events, one that rewards regular revisits. On until 17 November Mighty Guardians of the Past: Castles in the Slovenian Lands, a presentation that delivers on the promise of its title.

I try and get up there every Saturday morning to clear my head and move my feet on the trails, and never tire of that end of the hill. At the other end, where the Castle sits, there’s a lot more than fresh air on offer. There are guided tours, restaurants, a café, Castle museum, puppet museum, a Watchtower you can climb to the highest point in the city, art shows, dances, live music, movies under the stars, festival days and more – enough to reward multiple trips up the hill through the year. All of these activities and events can be found on the Castle website, while on TSN you can see “25 things to know about Ljubljana Castlehere, and “Ten Ways to Enjoy Ljubljana Castle” here.

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Museums and galleries

Most public galleries and museums are closed on Mondays, although not the National Museum.

Bežigrajska galerija 2 – Take a trip to Vodovodna cesta 3 and until 8 February 2020 you can see Lojze Spacal (1907–2000): From the Littoral and the Karst Region.

 Cankerjev dom – On until 3 March 2020 there's an exhibition on Ancient Greek Science and Technology. Details here.

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Plečnik's desk. Photo: JL Flanner

Plečnik’s House is worth a visit if you want to learn more about the architect who gave Ljubljana much of its character, and it's also in a really nice part of town, Trnovo, just a short walk or cycle upriver. Read about our guided tour here. On until January 2020 you can see plans and models for some of the things Plečnik planned but never built in Ljubljana. Take a look at some pictures here.

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Balassi Institute – The Hungarian culture centre is next to a Spar and Hofer, and not far from Dragon Bridge, and always has something interesting going on. Learn more here. This month there's also an exhibition with more works like the one shown below for a show described as follows: “The concept of the exhibition “Awkwardly Close” in Balassi Institute is exactly the self-conscious unease coming from artistic and content similarities between the works of Kata Bereczki, and the Slovenian artistic collective Son:DA."

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City Gallery - From 28 November until 19 January 2020 there's a sculpture by Jiři Bezlaj.

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Jiři Bezlaj, Hrošč, 2010 - 2016. Source: Mestna galerija

City Museum – The Museum in French Revolution Square an interesting permanent exhibition on the history of Ljubljana, from prehistoric times to the present day, with many artefacts, models and so on that bring the story alive.You can read about my visit here

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The Faces of Ljubljana in the City Museum. Photo: JL Flanner

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Drink like a pro - find gallery openings. Photo: JL Flanner

Ljubljana - (Un)known Ljubljana is on at the top of the hill, a free to enter National Geographic exhibition with photographs of some of the lesser seen parts of the city, with one example below and more here.

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MAO – The Museum of Architecture and Design has much of what you'd expect, along with some temporary shows and a good cafe.

Moderna galerija – The main branch of this gallery, to be found near the entrance to Tivoli Park, has a good collection of modern art, as well a nice café in the basement. The 9th Triennial of Contemporary Art U3 is also on here until 12 January 2020. Titled Dead and Alive: “The exhibition unfolds around three contradictory states of now – the dead and alive state of conceptualism, analogue and liquid materiality, and the subconscious as the battlefield of cognitive capitalism. Because – how do art and avant-garde progress? By making sensible what is beyond. At the end of the day, Dead and Alive is a quantum time search for an engaged form.” More details here, on one of the works on show below.

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© Aleksandra Vajd, Collage by K. E. Graebner Nature the Unknown Acquaintance (1971) and a unit of five hand-dyed photograms titled: ‘rivalry of superior vs. inferior’, 2017

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Alan Ford was recently at the National Gallery - read more about this comic book here.

National Gallery – The country’s main gallery has “the best” of what’s on offer from the Middle Ages to non-contemporary modern visual arts, and is in a great location for exploring other areas, just by Tivoli Park and opposite the main branch of the Moderna galerija. You can read about our visit to the room containing sacred art from the Middle Ages hereArt for the Brave New World runs until 5 January 2020: “The exhibition will present the beginnings and development of an early government art collection in Slovenia, which, despite the economic and political crisis, was created in the 1930s by artistic and professional personalities gathered around Dr Marko Natlačen, the last ban of the Drava Banovina.”

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JL Flanner

The real Robba Fountain can be found in the entrance to the National Gallery - the one you see in the Old Town is a genuine fake, as seen below and reported here.

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Photo: JL Flanner

National Museum of Slovenia – There’s plenty to see in the permanent collection here, from Roman times, Egypt and more. Meanwhile, the museum's Metelkova branch, located between one branch of the Moderna galerija and the Ethnographic Museum has some rooms on Church art, furniture and weapons, with the latter including more guns than you'll see anywhere else in town, and quite a thrill if coming from a nation where such objects are not household items.  

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A fragment of a Coptic textile; 5th–6th cent.:  Upper Egypt; linen, wool; National Museum of Slovenia. Photo: Tomaž Lauko

Until 24 May 2019 you can see Coptic Textiles from the Collection of the National Museum of Slovenia at the branch in the Metelkova museum quarter, by the Ethnographic Museum and the Museum of Contemporary Art. Details.

Natural History Museum – On until the end of December 2019 is Our Little Big Sea, which takes a look at the oceans.

National Museum of Contemporary History - Tucked away in park Tivoli, you can see a permanent exhibition on Slovenians in the 20th century.

Slovene Ethnographic Museum – The museum has two permanent exhibitions. One of these is called Between Nature and Culture, and has a great collection of objects from Slovenia and around the world, well worth the trip up to the third floor to see it (as recounted here). 

Vžigalica Gallery – From 12 November to 1 December there was a show from called SAEBORG: SLAUGHTER HOUSE 17 from the Japanese artist Saeborg, which was promoted with the following image that we can't bring ourselves to delete this week. Details here.

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SAEBORG: SLAUGHTER HOUSE 17. Photo: © DARKMOFO

Union Experience – The Ljubljana-based brewer has a museum showing the history of the company, with the ticket also including access to part of the factory and a few samples of the product. You can read about our visit here.

It's not a formal museum, but if you're interested in "Yugo-stalgia" then you'll enjoy a trip to Verba, a small, privately run space that's crammed with objects and pop culture items from the era, and is conveniently located at the start of one of the short walks to the castle. It's also a great place to take pictures, if you leave a donation, and you can read more about it here.

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Verba. Photo: JL Flanner

Alternative Ljubljana isn't a museum or gallery, as such, but instead turns the city streets into a museum and gallery. Learn more about their tours of street art, history and LGBT Ljubljana here.

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Photo: JL Flanner

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Other things to do in Ljubljana

Learn more about Ljubljana with "25 things to know about Slovenia's green city of dragons", or take a look at our guide to spending from four to 48 hours here.

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If you like the city's architecture then check out this great book, Let’s See the City - Ljubljana: Architectural Walks & Tours, with our review here and a page from the book shown above. We took a walk with one of the authors who showed us how much there is to learn and enjoy if you slow down and pay attention - read about that here.

Ljubljana has some beautiful buildings from the early 20th century, in the Secessionist style, like the one below. Learn where to find them here.

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Photo: Neža Loštrek

For something a little more brual, check out Republika trg / Republic Square, in the heart of the political quarter.

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Photo: JL Flanner

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Photo: JL Flanner

Some view of the city you can only get from the river. If you'd like to take a boat ride then read about my experience here. If you'd like to spend an evening painting with others, then take a look at Design with Wine, which organises painting parties on Trubarjeva cesta,

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If you want to see some antiques, then check out the wonderful Antika Carniola, as discussed here. The man behind it, Jaka Prijatelj, has a fine eye for life on this street, as you can see on his Facebook account.

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Photo: JL Flanner

If you’re in town and want to go jogging or walking in nature, why not take another look at the Castle, with a brief guide to the trails here. If you want something bigger, head to Tivoli Park.

And if you're bored with the Old Town, why not take a walk, cycle or boat ride to nearby Špica and enjoy the riverside life. Learn more about that here.

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visitljubjana.si

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Nataraja Studio

Want to stretch and breath? Then check out our list of drop-in yoga classes for tourists, visitors and the uncommitted. We go to Nataraja Studio, by Dragon Bridge, and here's a story about it.

Prefer to have someone else stretch you? The check out the totally legit massages you can get from Sense Wellness - either in one of their spas or in you home, office or hotel. (And - to repeat - these are legit and non-sexual in nature)

There are some golf courses near Ljubljana, but even ones further away are not far, as seen in our list of all the golf courses in Slovenia, which usually run until the first snow.

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Photo: maxpixel.net, public domain

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Daytrips

Most of Slovenia is only a few hours from Ljubljana, and you can easily visit Lake Bled, Lipica Stud Farm, Postojna Cave, Predjama Castle, the coast and other locations, while if you'd like to take a photo of from that bench in Bled, then you can learn how to get there here. If you’re looking for something more ambitious, then check out our recent guide to the 17 members of the Association of Historical Towns of Slovenia. We've also written guides on spending from four to 48 hours in Bled and Piran.

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Photo: Google Image Search

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Getting around

If you want to get a Ljubljana Tourist Card, which gives you travel on the city buses and entry to a lot of attractions, then you can read more about that here, and if you want to use the bike share system, as useful for visitors as it is for residents, then you can learn more by clicking this. Visitors with reduced mobility will be pleased to find that downtown Ljubljana is generally rated as good with regard to accessibility, and that there’s a free, city-sponsored app called Ljubljana by Wheelchair highlighting cafés, attractions and so on with ramps, disabled bathrooms and Eurokey facilities, which you can read about and download here. Manual wheelchair users can also borrow, for free, an attachment that will motorise their equipment, as reported here.

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Screenshot from a Twitter video

If you’re driving into town and don’t know where to park, our guide to how to park in Ljubljana is here.

Emergencies

Ljubljana is a small and relatively safe city, but if need to contact the police then there’s a special number for foreigners, and that’s 113.

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Photo: JL Flanner

There aren't many places to eat after midnight, and most of them are by the train station, as reported here.

Want / need cigarettes but the stores have closed? Here's an incomplete list of bars downtown that will satisfy your craving for the demon weed. While if you’re having trouble with the ATMs then here’s a guide to the Slovene you’ll see on screen. If you get a hangover then find out where to get paracetamol (and prescription drugs) in Ljubljana here, while details on emergency birth control can be found here.

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30 Nov 2019, 12:30 PM

This Sunday, 1 December, starts the festive season with the 26th edition of SILA’s annual bazaar, which brings international food, culture and charity together at a free to enter event in Ljubljana’s  Grand Hotel Union from 10:00 to 16:00. It’s a lot of fun, a great way to meet people from all over the world, and timed just right for lunch.

One of many innovations this year, at the biggest bazaar to date, is the Latin Corner. Things brings together five countries from Latin America to showcase the region’s gastronomy, crafts and culture.

We asked Miryam Yauli Palomino, one of the organisers, some questions, and she was kind enough to reply.

How was Latin Corner born?

The initiative to unite Latin American countries was brought up by the Brazilian Ambassador Renato Mosca, who participates in the other Latin American embassies located in Austria. The process was also helped along in the early stages by Colombia and Peru, the latter represented with the Honorary Consul from Peru, Peter Ilgo.

The Latino Corner is meant to demonstrate the brotherhood of Latin countries, as represented by their embassies, by Latin American members who are part of SILA, by residents of Latin American countries in Slovenia and by Latin American-led businesses that offer products or services typical of their countries.

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What can visitors expect to find at Latin Corner?

We’ll have a wide variety of products and typical Latin American cuisine:

From Peru, and with regard to gastronomy, the main dish is "stuffed cause" with three types, tuna, chicken and egg, and for dessert we will offer "Peruvian pisco truffle" and as a digestive "te de Muña" typical Peruvian product. And at noon there will be a "Pisco sour" Cocktail Show.

For Peruvian products there will be wallets, purses, chests, scarves, glasses, notebooks with handmade fabrics among other things. In addition, we’ll also offer Peruvian quinoa and literature.

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From Mexico there will be Mexican tacos, tortillas chips and Mexa beer. For the products there will be handmade accessories, Mayan embroidery, shawls, leather bags, purses, handmade wool rebozos made on a pedal loom, bracelets, necklaces, and that kind of thing.

Turning to Colombia the focus will be on coffee, with an interesting presentation, and also various coffee products on sale. While for Venezuela the story will be delicious bread, ham, cheese and three kinds of milk. From Brazil all I can say is that the details remain a secret, but you can expect some traditional dishes. You’ll have to come and find out what those are! Then with regard to the products on offer there will be pareos, typical Brazilian clothing and literature.

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I should also remind people that the bazaar is not just about food and charity (this year with a focus on diabetes), as there’ll also be cultural performances. So on stage there’ll be an Argentine Tango called: "I abandoned it and did not know", a dance in homage to peace in Latin America, while there will also a music and dance performance from Brazil.

Latin Corner is part of SILA's annual charity bazaar, a highly recommended event that runs from 10:00 to 16:00 Sunday December 1, in the ballroom of the Grand Hotel Union (the entrance on Nazorjeva Ulica, next to the Atelje restaurant and Hood Burger).

29 Nov 2019, 14:41 PM

STA, 28 November 2019 - Slovenia seems to be right on trend in zero-waste retail, as stores selling environmentally-friendly products in reusable packaging have been popping up across the country in the past year. Since the first zero-waste store opened in Ljubljana's Šiška borough in January, three more have been launched in Maribor, Krško and Ljubljana.

The owners of Rifuzl, the first zero-waste store in the country, are happy with business and are even planning to launch a delivery service, as many people come to shop there from other parts of the country.

Meanwhile, Ljubljana got a second zero-waste store on Wednesday. Natura was launched under the brand I Shop Responsibly and is the third zero-waste store launched under the brand started by the Association Social Economy Slovenia.

Meet the People: Neja Maruša Medved, Vegan and Zero Waste Blogger

The first store of this brand, Zelena Japka (Green Apple) was launched in May at Mala Tržnica, a market place across the street from the Maribor train station. In October, an arsonist completely destroyed the store, which opened today again in new premises within the same market place.

The Association Social Economy has been busy in the past months. Not only did it relaunch the store in Maribor and opened the new one in Ljubljana, the association also opened a store in Krško, in the south-east.

"We don't provide bags, we don't create waste and we encourage others to do the same," Miro Mihec of the association said at the opening in Ljubljana yesterday.

The premises on Gosposvetska Street are being rented out by a cooperative of a dozen social businesses from all parts of the country whose products are not packaged in plastics, have not been tested on animals, include no leather products and contain no GMO.

The store features natural cosmetics, organic cleaning products, recycled textile products, wooden and metal products and local foods. Interestingly, the store also sells sewing machines so as to encourage the reuse of old textile.

27 Nov 2019, 19:01 PM

Some time ago we reported that Špela Vodovc, the woman behind Culinary Slovenia and its food, drink and hiking tours of the country, was starting a Kickstarter to raise funds for a new cookbook that would explain, in clear English and beautiful photos, how to recreate classics from the Slovenian kitchen. That project met its funding goal within a few days, but it’s only recently that I got my hands on a copy of the book itself – by coincidence just in time to recommend it as Christmas or New Year gift to anyone you know who wants to learn the mysteries of potica, štruklji, gibanica, žlikrofi, kremšnita, mlinci and more.

Culinary Slovenia: Working to Expand Tourist Stays from Four Days to Seven

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Indeed, the book takes you on a tour of all four seasons and Slovenia’s 24 culinary regions, and with more than 100 dishes over 200+ pages you’re certain to find plenty of old favourites along with some you’ve never heard of. Each recipe is presented alongside a picture of the dish itself – providing inspiration as well as some serving suggestions – and thus the book also works a practical guide to Slovenian cuisine, one that outside the kitchen you can use to spot dishes in the wild and expand the range of items you order from the menu or the market, providing a checklist of things to seek out.

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And the recipes are so easy-to-follow, no doubt due to the years of experience the author has explaining these dishes in classes, that anyone who knows a frying pan from a sieve will be able to put together a shopping list, come home and produce the desired results. This is, after all, traditional, hone-style food, made using standard techniques, and the words foam, emulsion and sous vide seem to appear nowhere in the text.

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The book itself is a well-made paperback, strongly bound and suitable for the frequent use it’ll enjoy. Although written by Spela Vodovc the book was designed by Gregor Žakelj (of VBG design studio) and the photos taken by Mateja Jordović Potočnik, while the food was styled by Špela and her mother, Branka Vodovc (with the pictures taken in the latter’s home)

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As Slovenian cuisine gets more of a global reputation, due to the sterling work of its producers, chefs and promotors, we can expect more books that attempt to explain the canon to interested readers. With Cook Eat Slovenia, Špela Vodovc has set a high standard indeed, and one that’s available for just €24.99. While further distribution is being arranged the easiest place to find a copy is in Felipe Dvore, the fancy kitchenware store just opposite the Tourist Information Centre and next to Lolita Café by Triple Bridge in Ljubljana, or online here – with shipping worldwide in around 10 days for the furthest locations.

27 Nov 2019, 13:17 PM

The time of lights, fairs, feasts and celebrations is approaching with Christmas and New Year’s celebrations across Slovenia. This is an overview of the programme that will take place in Maribor, the city with perhaps the most spectacular arrival of Grandpa Frost in the country.

Turning on the Christmas lights: November 29, 2019;

Just like many other cities, Maribor will also turn its Christmas lights on this Friday, November 29. At 17:00 the Mayor Aleksander Saša Arsenovič and pupils of Prežihov Voranc elementary school will turn on the lights at Trg generala Maistra and then move to Trg Svobode and at 17:20 turn the lights on there as well.

Festive Fair: November 29 – December 30, 2019

Craftsmen, potters, beekeepers, herbalists, farmers' wives associations and caterers will put their products on their stalls at Grajski Trg and Trg Svobode starting this Friday as well.

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City of Fairies Festival: November 29 – December 28

Also this Friday begins a programme with puppet shows, workshops, street performers, and concerts known as the Fairies Festival. For details please visit Narodni dom Maribor’s website for details.

Concerts and DJ sets at Leon Štukelj Square: November 29 – December 31, 2019

For details on daily programme and lineups, klick here.

Winter Fairy tale at Grajski trg: November 29 – December 31, 2019

Aromatic offerings of mulled wine, sweets and other foods will be available in the company of live music at Grajski trg every day starting this Friday. 

City Ice Rink: November 29, 2019 – February 29, 2020

An ice rink will be opened at Trg Svobode this Friday as well, one that will eventually offer the possibility to spend New Year ’s Eve on skates till two in the morning. Click here for more.

Arrival of Grandpa Frost: December 7 at 17:00

Do not miss Grandpa Frost’s spectacular arrival from Maribor’s Pohorje on December 7th.

Grandpa Frost’s Farewell: December 28, 2019

At 17:00 Grandpa Frost will greet children for the last time in 2019 at Vetrinjski dvor, where a magic show will also take place, then he will walk to the stage at Leon Štrukelj Square, where he will address the children one more time at 17:45, before returning to his home in Pohorje.

Winter Air 360 Luft Bar: November 22., 2019 – March 21, 2020

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Photo: Visitmaribor.si
 

At the eleventh floor of the Slavia business centre (Ulica Vita Kraigherja 3), an open terrace promises to offer a magical experience out in the open almost throughout the entire winter: with lights, a fireplace, snowy trees, Christmas tree, and wooden signposts, all while being served hot chocolate or mulled wine.

New Year’s Celebration: December 31 Leon Štukelj Square

Maribor is a city with the longest tradition of celebrating the New Year’s Eve out in the open. This year visitors will do their countdown at Leon Štukelj Square in a company of two bands, Groovocado and Big Foot mama.

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